alaska v3.0 – civilization

August 21st, 2007 | alaska, beauty, friends, good stuff, vacation | chris | 0 comments

the rest of our trip to denali was spent in the area around the park entrance. a visit to the sled dogs, science center, and other park attractions. one of our first meals out was at a local pizza place. yum. delicious beer from the alaskan brewing co. and a hot pizza was exactly what i had in mind.much fun was had as we burned the last few days we had in alaska. our ride back to anchorage was just as bad, if not worse than our ride up to denali. again, a 4-5 hour drive was extended to a 5-6 hour drive because our driver was falling asleep on the wet mountain roads. stopping every 20 minutes to get some fresh air and stay awake. like i said before, this could have been the scariest part of the trip.

once back in anchorage we met up with ren’s cousin, chris and his wife, heard about their wedding the week before and shared our trekking stories. the rest of the time in the city we spent walking around anchorage rescuing dogs, eating amazing seafood, and visiting the most typical tourist shops on the planet.

it’s good to be home. but i can’t wait until the next chance we have to be in the backcountry.

alaska v2.3 – spent

August 20th, 2007 | alaska, beauty, friends, good stuff, vacation | chris | 0 comments

the fourth day out, deeann and i got up early to check the water levels for our hike back the next morning. since the rivers would recede we figured we would be able to walk between the ridge and the water if we made it quick before the waters would rise up again. it looked doable.

after breakfast we packed our daypack and made our way further south for a day-hike back towards the glaciers. this was another beautiful hike. running into more wildlife (caribou, arctic ground squirrel) and seeing some gorgeous colors of rock, water, and sky.

after getting back to camp we started in on supper and shuffled up the cards a played a few hands. we were quite tired. it started to sprinkle and we were low on sleep anyways, so we decided to go to bed early. besides, we knew we had to get up early to beat the rise of the water.

the next morning we got up around 4:30-5:00 and the rain is coming down. we quickly get up, strike camp, throw the rain gear on and move our way down the river. however, since it was raining most of the night, the water never had a chance to recede. even though they were as high as ever, we decided to take our chances with the ridge and the river. unfortunately i don’t have any pictures of it, mostly because there really weren’t very many opportunities to pull the camera out. it was either that or loose balance….i chose balance.

after we reach the road, we chill out under the bridge for about an hour and a half filling up on some fresh water and eating some breakfast. wet and tired, we make our way to the road to catch a bus.

it rained most of the way out to our next unit. in some places the sun would be shining and in others it would be pouring. those mountains contain their own weather systems. after about another hour or so on the bus we get dropped off and start our hike toward our final camp.

this is what my hell would be like: humid wetness, brush up to my chest, soggy footing, 35+ pounds on my back, long rain pants and coat, and 4 nights of sleeping with the sun. that sums the next few hours of this day. we were all tired and wet. it was ugly. despite our emotions and exhausted bodies, the skies this day were amazing. because the mountains brew up their own weather there would be rain in one area and beautiful puff clouds in another area. you could see the rain just pour down for miles away.

after hiking to a river we were supposed to ford, we stopped to contemplate our options. judging by the water levels, the speed of the river, and most importantly our physical shape, we decided to call it a trip. i’m sure if we would have tried to bear the river, our legs and bodies would give. however, as soon we made this decision we were in much better spirits. we stopped for a quick snack and back rest, eating up the multitudes of blueberries, then made our way back to the road. the next bus to come by was a fairly empty camper bus. perfect. we sat down, aired out our feet and my mind was filled with that beer i had been dreaming about.

alaska v2.2 – glacier water is fun

August 16th, 2007 | alaska, beauty, friends, fun, good stuff, life, vacation | chris | 0 comments

the second unit was half way on the road and another 2 hours on the bus. when we caught the bus to go to the next unit, in the toklat river valley, we ended up on a tour bus. basically, when you get to the road and need a ride you just start hiking in the direction you would like to go and when a bus comes by, and they have room, they will stop and pick you up. even if it isn’t a camper bus. so for the next 2 hours we were riding a bus full of people who had showered that morning. you can imagine how excited they were to see us climb on.

our second unit was along the toklat river which is fed by three glaciers. this is an amazing site to see. the river bed was constantly changing and braiding. every night the water would receid because it would cool and the glacier melt would slow. during the day the water would rise as the heat would melt the glacier faster. because the water level was always changing, the flow and speed would change, and so would the path of the water. these rivers and streams were truly alive.

as we hiked up and over a ridge off of the river bed, we realized that we took what could have been one of the more difficult paths to where we planned to camp. however, we didn’t have much of a choice because of the water level along the ridge. we were running low on water so after we set-up camp we put all of our nalgene’s and bladders into one pack. knowing we couldn’t filter the glacier water because it was too silty, ren decided to braved the river. the closest safe drinking water was just on the other side of the toklat river, coming off the mountains snow melt.

Ren fording the riverthis was one of the more stressful parts of our trip. knowing that the biggest killer in denali were not the bears or any of the wildlife, but the rivers because of their shear power and unpredictability, we took all the precautions we could. finding the best places to cross each braid of the river, ren safely reached the other side despite the nerves each of us had. it took him about 45 minutes to filter and fill everything with clean water and put it back into the pack. then he had to ford the river again, only this time he had 50+ pounds on his back. this pass didn’t go as smoothly as he lost his footing and went in head first. for the next 10 seconds my heart rate would fly. he floated down maybe 6 feet, but in these freezing, rushing waters, there is no telling what could happen. thankfully he quickly got his footing and came out cold and wet. shortly following we were laughing about it, but in the moment i was terrified.thanks to ren, we had clean water for the next day and a half.

Caribouthat night we just sat, played some cards, and waited for the wildlife to come out. the later it got, the more caribou we saw. first one, then two, then a herd of over 15. beautiful. as the sun would go over the mountains behind us, the dall sheep in the mountains across from us would slowly make their way in to sleep. thinking we could stay up later than the sun, we finally decided to give in around 1am.

This was as dark as it got around 1pm
to see more pictures click here.

alaska v2.1 – “hey bear!”

August 14th, 2007 | alaska, beauty, crazy, friends, fun, vacation | chris | 0 comments

Sanctuary Camp

as we get off the road and start hiking into our unit for the next 2 days, we come to a serious realization.  we are far away from everything we see as reality and very close to something unfamiliar and unknown.  we have traveled over 3,000 miles and finally we have arrived, and nothing looks familiar.  there is something extremely beautiful in that.

as we started our hike we quickly realize that the only trails that are out there are the animal trails and they are not exactly made for casual walking.  brush that is higher than our heads, weeds that untie your shoes every other step, and an unbelievable amount of wild blueberries.  with the blueberries, however, are the animals.  the bush is too thick to see more than 10 feet in front of us and knowing that the bears more than any enjoy the yummy fresh berries.  so another realization; we are experiencing the wild animals that are actually wild.  these animals are not used to seeing humans, not used to hearing cars, not used to eating human food.  we are in their territory.  in preparation for this trip we all learned how to deal with the different animals as we encounter them.  hoping we would avoid much interaction with much wildlife outside of the camper bus, we learned you need to be loud and unthreatening, calling out “heeeeeeeey bear” and “no bear” with the occasional random song that would pop in our heads.  the fear of these encounters would only get worse as we started to see fur on trees, bear scat and prints, and evidence of a recent bed for a beast.
Mt. Wrightwe quickly realized how much effort this was going to be.   it took about 3 hours for us to hike back about 2 or 3 miles from the road and find a perfect little ridge for our site.  right along sanctuary river and at the foot of mt. wright.  day one was exciting and full of realizations.

i’m not sure about the other two, but this was a hard night to get sleep.

day two we leave our gear at camp, put on our day pack full of water and lunch and start the hike up mt. wright.  this was a beautiful hike.  when we reached the summit(about 5,000 ft.) it was a gorgeous wide open field of green.  the wind was strong, as it usually is when you are up on the top of a mountain, and looked like something out of the sound of music.  we took our time at the top and started our trek down.  we eventually reach a ridge that we came up only a few hours earlier and we hear this high pitched screeching noise.  it’s so incredibly quiet out there, so when you hear something other than yourself you come to a quick stop and just listen.  soon, about 20 yards in front of us was a lynx and her cubs.  we staying our distance and kept quite as they came up over the ridge and climbed back down the other side.  It was beautiful to watch.  the snowshoe hare population is very high right now in the park, so the lynx population is also up.  later we heard bus drivers that had been working at the park for 13+ years and they had never seen one because they are such an elusive animal.  awesome! (no pictures cause i didn’t want to startle her. :(   )
Hike up Mt. Wrightwe slept very well that night.

the next day we got up and ate breakfast(hot oatmeal w/ peanut butter tortillas….so good!) and struck camp, packed everything up and started our hike back to the road.  this was a fun hike, knowing a better way back and enjoying the beautiful crisp morning.  we reached the road in half the time it took to get out, got our extra food bag and jumped a bus within 30 minutes.

now we are on our way to our second unit and a totally new territory . . . .

to see more pictures click here.

alaska v2.0 – getting in

August 8th, 2007 | alaska, beauty, friends, good stuff, vacation | chris | 1 comment

so we finally get to the park all in one piece. the visitors center and entrance area of the park is very different than what you see when you actually get inside the park. at the entrance of the park you will find a traditional campground outfitted for RVs, trailers, and camping of most types. You’ll find modern bathrooms and even a mercantile where you can take a shower, wash your clothes, or get an ice cream cone and read the newspaper. They even have wireless internet! Even before you get into the park there is a little strip of commercial territory where you will find all sorts of touristy hang-outs. More on that in a later post.

The Wilderness Access Center (WAC) is a nice big building where you can make your reservations for campsites, Ren making one last phone call.tour buses, watch a movie about the park, and grab a quick souvenir. Right next to the WAC, is a wee little building called the Backcountry Information Center (BIC). The BIC is where you must go before you can enter the backcountry. So here we are in the BIC looking at maps that cover the walls and getting some advice from one of the park employee’s. After checking things out, DeeAnn, Ren and I file into a little room to watch a 20 minute safety video. Then we decide on which units we’d like to stay in the backcountry. The units are not campsites or campgrounds. The units are used to mark out different areas of the park. They only allow a certain number of backpackers into each unit at a time. This is enforced to keep the human “imprint” down and also to traffic backpackers and keep everyone from being in the more popular parts of the park. After this is all sorted out, they give you your bear kegs to keep the bears out of our food and our backcountry permit.

From here we quickly pack the food we are going to use for the next 2 1/2 days and every possible thing that carries a scent(toothpaste, some first aide items, soap, etc.) into the bear kegs and all the other food is thrown in a heavy duty garbage sack. Then we jump on the 4pm bus into the backcountry(the last one that goes out because it is a 4-5 hour ride one way to the end of the road which is only 90 miles long). It was only one hour to our first unit, however the time flies on those camper buses. If any wildlife is spotted, and there is plenty to go around, they stop the bus(and even shut it off sometimes) and everyone gets their photos and a peek at whatever might be hanging around.

Ren carrying the food bag.Once we reach our unit, the driver stops, we grab our stuff and they drive away, leaving us miles away from anything familiar. What a strange feeling; relief with a touch of panic.

So we take our garbage bag of extra food and put it in a safe, locked container at the road, check our map, GPS, and compass, and start our hike. We had no idea what we were getting ourselves into…..